Fact or Myth on Skin Pt 2

FACT OR MYTH: The higher the SPF, the better the protection.

MYTH :There are three kinds of ultraviolet (UV) rays: UVA, UVB and UVC. UVA rays penetrate the skin fairly deeply, altering your pigmentation to produce a tan. UVB rays are the primary sunburn rays. These rays also damage your skin's DNA and cause photoaging, pigment changes, and carcinomas (cancerous tumors). UVC rays are absorbed by the atmosphere and don't make it to the ground.

The SPF on a sunscreen refers to the amount of protection the product offers from UVB rays or sunburns. Many sunscreens, therefore, need to offer protection from both UVA and UVB rays. Broad spectrum means protection against UVA and UVB. Look for an SPF of at least 15 and one of the following ingredients: mexoryl, oxybenzone or avobenzone (Parsol 1789) for UVA protection, or titanium dioxide.

FACT OR MYTH: It's better to get the pus out of a pimple by popping it.

MYTH :"The truth is, even though it feels really good to release [the pus], a lot of it just goes in deeper," says Johnson. "When it goes in deeper, it causes more inflammation that can lead to scarring and spread under the skin. That's why you'll get another one a few days later close to the first one."

Johnson says it's crucial that people stop picking at their faces. But if you absolutely cannot resist, she says, be sure to do it right. Don't squeeze and pop the pimple. Instead, use something called a comedone extractor -- an inexpensive tool you can purchase at most beauty supply stores. Apply firm pressure with the extractor; then roll it across the pimple to take it out.

FACT OR MYTH:  Cocoa butter prevents stretch marks.

Myth: Many women swear cocoa butter on pregnant bellies keeps stretch marks at bay, but it’s probably their DNA that stops the white, raised skin scars from forming, says Dr. Fusco. “Though cocoa butter moisturizes, it can’t prevent stretch marks,” Dr. Fusco says.

Stretch marks usually crop up when the skin’s elastic fibers are forced to expand because of the growing uterus. They can also appear after growth spurts of extreme weight gain or loss. Many products may claim to make stretch marks vanish, but so far no cream has been proven to do the trick, Dr. Fusco says.

FACT OR MYTH: Facials and microdermabrasion are good for your skin care routine.

MYTH: This is a popular myth, says Bauman, especially with the proliferation of day spas. But, Bauman says, a recent study from India concluded that facials actually cause acne breakouts in 80% of people.  "They feel good but have no long-term skin benefit beyond relaxation," she says. "Like microdermabrasion, which merely sloughs off the top layer of skin, they are a "complete and total waste of money."

 FACT OR MYTH: Expensive skin care products work best.

MYTH: "This is simply not true," Bauman, who uses popular drugstore moisturizers and sunscreen for her own skin care regimen, says. "Many mass market products are better than expensive ones."  Most active ingredients found in anti-aging creams are similar, whether they are sold by a local store or a fancy boutique. Expensive skin care products can be good, of course. It's just that you can usually get something similar for a lot less.

FACT OR MYTH: Antiaging products (or "wrinkle creams") can erase wrinkles.

MYTH: Most wrinkle creams simply hydrate skin, plumping it out and making it look better temporarily. So don't buy into the hype. There is one product that has a solid history and reputation for reversing fine lines, however, Bauman says. That is topical retinoids.

Often sold under the name "Retinol" or "Tretinoin," these creams or drops penetrate the skin and increase skin cell turnover. Studies have shown them to be fairly effective at treating acne, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and reversing the effects of photoaging or sun damage. Some retinoids can be purchased over the counter. For greater strength, ask your doctor for a prescription. Many dermatologists recommend using an antioxidant cream containing vitamin C but cautions that these creams tend to destabilize very quickly. So they should be purchased from a reputable company.

FACT OR MYTH: Lasers can make you look 20 years younger.

FACT: "There are many different types of lasers being marketed, and they all do different things. "Some help with sun spots, some help with wrinkles. Some go deep and activate collagen. It's all marketed so much that people think it can make you a completely different person."

While lasers are much better than they were a few years ago and produce better results with fewer side effects, patients still need to be realistic about what they can actually do. If you've done intensive damage to your skin, there's only so much we can do,.

FACT OR MYTH: Everyone's skin ages the same way.

FACT: Here's where those with oily complexions get the last laugh. You may have cursed your T-zone in college, but oil naturally moisturizes and protects skin from aging. Dry skin shows fine lines earlier, no thanks to an impaired outer barrier that lets youth-preserving moisture out and aging irritants in. For dry types, Jaliman recommends a lightweight moisturizer with hyaluronic acid, a molecule that attracts water. (We like Neocutis Hyalis 1% Hyaluronate Refining Serum, $95.)

FACT OR MYTH: Daily exfoliation keeps skin young.

FACT: This isn't entirely false, but for some skin types, daily peels or scrubs can do some serious damage. "If you have sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea, you can over-exfoliate and irritate your skin," says Jaliman. In lieu of aggressive, abrasive sponges, she prefers gentle exfoliation for all skin types with a cleansing brush system like Clarisonic's (from $119) to slough off dull, old-looking skin. If your skin can tolerate it, add glycolic pads (such as Bliss That's Incredi-'peel'!, $49) once a week to rev up radiance.

FACT OR MYTH:Your diet has little to do with how your skin ages.

FACT: "There's interesting new research linking diet and skin health," says Los Angeles dermatologist Dr. Jessica Wu. She points to high-glycemic foods (white foods such as rice, pasta, bread, and sugary sweets) as super skin-enemies because they trigger the body to produce insulin, which causes age-accelerating inflammation. Instead, load up on colorful vegetables that fight swelling and redness, suggests Wu. "One study showed that those who eat more green and yellow vegetables have fewer wrinkles, especially crow's-feet, around the eyes."

FACT OR MYTH:Wrinkles are formed by facial expressions.

FACT: True, but the same skin folding that causes wrinkles when you move your face (marionette lines, the "11s" between brows, etc.) can happen while you're sleeping on your side or stomach. Skin produces less elastic tissue over time, which means it can't bounce back as easily (or at all) after years of being smushed into a pillow, explains Wu. "I tell my patients to try to train themselves to sleep on their backs," she says. Try the Sobakawa Cloud Pillow, $20, or similar models designed to keep your head in place.

FACT OR MYTH: Good skincare can erase signs of aging.

FACT: It helps, but skin also depends on good circulation. If your arteries are in bad shape, expect a dull complexion. Get early treatment to normalize blood pressure and help prevent this damage.

FACT OR MYTH: Wearing makeup to bed does not affect your skin.

MYTH:  During sleep, our skin goes through a renewal process- in fact; skin regenerates three times faster at night than during the day.   During this process our bodies eliminate toxins through our pores.  If you do not remove your makeup at night the regeneration process can be hindered and your pores may be too clogged to allow this natural detoxification to take place.

Leaving your makeup on once in a while shouldn’t do too much damage, just don’t make a habit out of it. You always need to wash your face in the morning even if you need to wash it the night before?

FACT OR MYTH: It is best to clean your face with a washcloth.

 MYTH:  A washcloth can be abrasive and spread bacteria.  Bacteria loves those warm wet wash clothes that always hang in our bathrooms and you can actually be washing bacteria into your face.  The best thing to wash your face with is your clean hands.

FACT OR MYTH:  Hot showers cause wrinkles.

 FACT:  Sad but true…hot showers dry your skin which can lead to wrinkles.  It is best to use lukewarm water.

FACT OR MYTH:  You shouldn’t leave makeup on while you exercise.

 FACT:  Sweat causes pores to open and when mixed with makeup,  attracts bacteria.  It is okay to use lip-gloss and waterproof mascara if feel you must.

FACT OR MYTH:  Toothpaste will dry out a pimple.

Myth: “Toothpaste irritates, burns, causes more breakouts and scars skin,” Dr. Fusco says.

That’s especially true of today’s toothpastes, “which have a lot of whitening and bleaching ingredients that are extremely irritating,” she says.

So save it for your teeth and use a facial cleanser for acne to keep skin clear.

FACT & MYTHS ON SKIN. Part 1

Fact or Myth? Shaving makes hair grow back thicker.

Answer: Myth

"That's definitely a myth," said Dr. Arielle Kauvar, a clinical associate professor in NYU's department of dermatology.

But there's a reason why shaving might appear to have that result.  "When you shave, you're seeing the blunt edges of the hair regrow all at the same time, so there's an appearance of being thicker, but there's no difference in the diameter or the density of the hair," Kauvar said. Hair doesn't seem to grow in as thick in waxing, because the entire follicle is removed, so the hair coming back in is growing in different cycles. As a result, it does not appear to be as dense. Also, the hair is tapered at the end, so it does not appear to be as thick.

Fact or Myth? Exfoliating can slow hair growth.

Answer: Myth

Doing something to your skin doesn't seem to affect something that grows below it.

"Exfoliating the surface of the skin -- it's not going to change the metabolism of the follicle underneath the skin," said Dr. Ronald Brancaccio, director of the Skin Institute of New York.

 The only current treatment available to slow hair growth is the drug Vaniqa, which is applied topically to reduce facial hair growth in women. It works by blocking an enzyme that enables hair follicles to grow. A number of illnesses can also lead to a temporary loss of hair. These include thyroid problems and a condition known as telogen effluvium. Typically, 20 percent of hair is in the resting phase -- where it is not growing -- at any given time. Illness, trauma or childbirth can lead to telogen effluvium, where a greater percentage of the hair is pushed into that resting phase, making it seem like hair fell out overnight.

Fact or Myth? All wrinkles form by age 25 -- they just start to show later.

Answer: Myth

This is known to be a myth largely because activities after 25 -- like spending more time out in the sun -- can lead to an increase in wrinkles.  "If you get a lot of sun exposure, you're definitely going to get more wrinkles," said Dr. Zoe Draelos, a dermatologist in private practice and a researcher in High Point, N.C. Wrinkles are the result of a loss of collagen, the main structural protein of the skin. As you age, the body begins to produce less of it, which keeps skin from being as firm as it was when you were younger.  But while that decline in collagen happens to everyone, and wrinkles will form along the lines that are moved in facial expressions, sun exposure breaks down collagen even more, leading to wrinkles that otherwise might never have happened.

Fact or Myth: Squinting or rubbing your eyes and face can cause wrinkles.

Answer: Fact

Wrinkles occur where they do because of the places where skin cells are squeezed millions of times by facial expressions.

As the skin loses firmness with age, wrinkles form where it has been squeezed. So, squinting, or any other repeated facial expression, like frowning or smiling, will lead to wrinkles when it is done enough times. But, while facial expressions may be the cause of wrinkles, there's little that can be realistically done to prevent them from forming.  "You can't walk around stone-faced all day," Brancaccio said. The appearance of wrinkles can be improved with Botox, which is injected in the forehead, between the eyes, to keep the muscles from moving. Rubbing your eyes, on the other hand, is highly unlikely to leave marks.  "Rubbing can cause irritation or dryness, [but it] won't cause permanent wrinkles," Brancaccio said.

The reason is that people do not rub their face constantly, and even when they do, the rubbing doesn't occur in the same place and in the same direction, which would be necessary to cause wrinkles. "If you're rubbing your face to the point of scarring, that can be a problem, but most people don't do that," Draelos said.

Fact or Myth? Apply moisturizer and foundation in upward strokes or you will get wrinkles.

Answer: Myth

"You can't rub wrinkles into your face," Draelos said. "The skin is elastic, and when you stretch it, it bounces back. "Even daily repetition won't be enough to cause a wrinkle if it isn't done in exactly the same way each time. The only way to artificially create a wrinkle is stretching the skin for a prolonged period -- like when you sleep.  "Sleeping on one side of your face all the time can cause wrinkles on that side because you are creasing the skin in the same way night after night," Kauvar said. "To avoid that, the best thing to do is sleep on your back. But that's not something everyone can control."

Fact or Myth? Drink eight glasses of water a day and you will have great skin.

Answer: Sort of

Drinking water may be important for healthy skin, but eight glasses may be going overboard. "You do need to hydrate your skin. However, if you drink too much water, it will just be flushed out," Draelos said. But she cautioned that dry skin can have other causes. "Drinking water doesn't necessarily hydrate your skin," she said. "If you have dry skin, it's not necessarily because you don't drink enough water." She said that moisturizer and mild soap may be the best way to help. Still, dehydration can have harmful effects on skin. Kauvar explained that collagen -- the substance that gives skin its firmness -- floats in a sugar gel that holds onto water in the skin. So, without water, the skin can lose that rigidity. "The key thing is that you want to remain well-hydrated," Kauvar said. "There's no absolute number, and it obviously depends on your size.

Fact or Myth? Bathing in milk (or drinking it) can help you have great skin.

Answer: Fact, but before you head to the grocery store...

Milk has a soothing effect on people who have an inflammation of the skin, like eczema, but so do a number of other products whose prices aren't rising at the speed of gasoline.  "Moisturizers and bath additives can do just as well and are probably more elegant," Kauvar said. "There's no advantage to bathe in milk."

Fact or Myth? Dry-brushing your skin eliminates cellulite.

Answer: Myth

"We have very little that will help cellulite, at the moment," Kauvar said. Superficial fat that grows in globules in the skin is behind this unpleasant phenomenon. Among current treatments, Kauvar pointed to those that try to increase the thickness of the skin and hide cellulite, and others that try to melt superficial fat in the skin to improve the appearance of cellulite.

Other procedures involve massaging the skin deeply several times a week, which may help cellulite look better temporarily, but need to be done repeatedly. "There are lots of procedures in development right now, some of which will eliminate or improve the appearance of cellulite, but dry brushing is not one of them," Kauvar said. So, why do so many snake-oil cellulite treatments garner attention? Brancaccio says that the skin irritation many of them cause may make it seem like they're working, if only temporarily. "Some may cause swelling, which gives the appearance that the cellulite has evened out a bit," he said. In other words, by irritating the skin, the swelling makes the cellulite itself less noticeable. Of course, once that irritation goes away, the cellulite will still be there.

Fact or Myth? Dirt (or chocolate, or greasy food) causes acne.

Answer: Myth

"Specific food associations with acne have never been demonstrated to have any scientific basis," Kauvar said.

As mentioned before, there was a connection made between skim milk and acne, but scientists couldn't explain why that same connection didn't exist between fattier milks and breakouts. Kauvar explained that low-fat, low-carb diets seem to show some benefits, but there has been nothing conclusive. As long as you are a reasonably neat eater, you have nothing to fear from the foods you are eating. "Vegetable oils, if they get on your face while eating, they can cause acne, but consuming them does not," Draelos said. Dirt is also not a culprit here. "Dirt is not the cause of acne, and neither is bacteria," Kauvar said. Thinking that may lead to its own problems, as over-washing your face and drying it out can cause acne. Face washings should be limited to twice a day, she said. And you should exfoliate to unclog pores, which is different from simply washing your face. 

The villain behind acne is sebum, a fatty secretion produced in the skin. When it clogs the pore, a pimple is formed. Efforts to clear up acne should focus on clearing sebum away.

Back 2 Basics: 7 Must Have Beauty Products

Here is my must have list of products that every beginner or someone who have an interest in makeup must have.  I chose these products on account of their of their reliability, quality, cost, and ease of use.  Some categories have multiple products because It was so hard to choose.... they are all so good.  Well on with the show.  Que music ...... ( Quency Jones "Back on the Block" - it's old school ya'll)

TOOLS

ELF brushes  is inexpensive at a cost of $1 -3 each and of good quality.  I would suggest you get two face brushes (one for power and the other for foundation) and get three eye shadow brushes each.  They are a great investment.  I have had mine for 2 year strong.

PRIMERS

Depending on you skin type will determine what type of primer you will need.  Here are my two choices.  Don't get scared about the second one. Let me explain.  

If you are oily this is a great primer.  It mattifies the face and for you dark divas, NO White cast or film.  Cost $4-6 .  On to choice number 2.

Like I said don't freak out.  This gel has the same ingredients (silicone) as Smashbox and other high end brands but at  half the cost.  You also get 3  times the product.   I goes on smooth and because it has silicone it doesn't clog pores.  Dries to a satin / matte finish.  Trust and believe.

FACE PRODUCTS

If you need a concealer these two are what I would recommend., It all depends on what format you want.  Crayon or liquid.  Bother are great for highlighting, concealing and correcting.

For foundations I recommend the CoverGirl 3-in-1.  It has the light to medium shades and the Queen collection had the Tan to deep shades.  The foundation has a pump, (YEAH!!), dries to a matte finish, is long lasting and has medium to full coverage.  Price $8-10, Not bad. 

EYE PRODUCTS

First up is Eyeshadow. 

 I gave you two choices.  You can spend $10 online at Eyes Lips Face (ELF) because, I haven't seen this in stores.  This pallet has 100 eye shadow's in it so you will have  a lot of choices.  Dow side is hit and miss on quality. Some shade are amazing and others are not.   

 Option 2

 You can get 4 smaller eye trio's  From Wet n Wild that will allow you to build up you collection.  Quality is amazing and price is $3 each at Walgreen's.  If not in you local store check on line. 

Eyeliners outline the eye and give it definition.  This one from Maybelline is creamy and smooth going on an set in a few.  Comes in different colors so you don't have to stick with basic black. Price $6-8 

LIP PRODUCTS

Can you tell I am all about choices. 

Revlon's Lip butters are color and hydration to the lip $6-8

Everyone should have at least one red lipstick.  This one from Wet n Wild had color that will make-em look. $2.  Not a fan of red.  Check out their other 30 color choices.

Want you lip color to stay.  Try a Lip stain.  I love the one from Revlon.  Long lasting, smooth on the lips and great colors.  Price $6-8

So that is my 7 Beauty must have to get you started.  Look, i even gave you choices.   Until next time.

Ciao Bella,

 Yolanda-Monqiue

Back 2 Basics: Foundation Review

Foundations:  For me it is the backbone to my makeup routine.   Why would I say that?  Well as someone who has severe adult acne and hyperpigmentation, my foundations cover up the acne and the facial scars while I am treating them. This allows me to be a little less self-conscious about my facial imperfections and scaring.  I know not everyone has acne or hyperpigmentation but for me, foundations in the cosmetic product that started my love of makeup.   Here is a breakdown of all the foundations I own.  Please note that my reviews are coming from my perspective based on my skin type and conditions:  Oily / combo (during winter) skin type, adult acne, hyperpigmentation.

COVERGIRL QUEEN

This foundation clams to be 3-in-1: concealer, foundation and powder.    While I do add powder on top of it, if you are normal or dry I can see you going without powder.  I love the coverage and it is now my go to everyday foundation.   Current shade Q840 Almond Glow

• ·         Medium to full coverage
• ·         Price: $7-9 at Wal-Mart, Target and drugstores.  I tend to find them in urban areas but you can order online at drugstore.com.
• ·         Long wearing
• ·         Simi-matte/matte finish
• ·         Has a pump!!!!!
• ·         14 shades available
• ·         SPF 20
• ·         Designed for the darker skin tones.  For lighter skin tones check out CoverGirl’s Outlast.  Same clams but more lighter shades

MAKEUP FOREVER MAT VELVET+

This foundation is a shine controlling, oil-free, water-resistant and provides full coverage and of course a mat finish.  I feel that the coverage is medium and can be built up to full.  This foundation is one I tend to grad during the summer  or when I am going to be doing physical activity  or near water because is its water resistant.  Current Shade #70 Caramel & #75 Coffee

• ·         Medium to full coverage
• ·         Price: $36 at Sephora
• ·         Long wearing
• ·         Squeeze bottle
• ·         16 shades available
• ·         No SPF

BARE MINERALS

This foundation clams to even skin tone providing a flawless no-makeup look by diminishing the appearance of imperfections without drying out skin.  This foundation came very close to being my most hated.  I could not find the right shade and I have been in Sephora several times to exchange one shade for another trying to find my match.  I switch from original to Matt to try and controls the oil slick I call my face and I could not get the coverage I want.  I am not a fan of this foundation.  It would great on top of my liquid foundations as a powder but for me it just did not cover my hyperpigmentation the way liquid could. 

·         Two formulas with over 35 shades

·         Sifter in container to shake out amount desired

·         Price: $24 - $36 depending where you get it and if it’s in a combo set

MAYBELLINE FIT ME STICK FOUNDATION

This oil-free stick foundation has an anti-shine core that is supposed to keep you shine free with light to medium coverage.  Reality:  Great for individual who are normal to dry with little to no skin imperfections.  If you are oily and/or have lots of skin blemishes you will hate this foundation.  I purchased shade 340 Cappuccino.

• ·         Light coverage only!!
• ·         Price: $5-7
• ·         2-4 coverage before product shifted, faded became noticeable
• ·         No SPF
• ·         12 shades

MAYBELLINE SUPERSTAY FOUNDATION

Micro-Flex formula provides 24-hour wear and no transfer, stays on and looks naturally flawless all day.  Product is oil-free, heat and sweat resistant.  For me this foundation actually does what it clams.  It is one of my top 3 foundations and I love to mix it with other foundations that are not quite there.  One day I decided to mix this with Mat Velvet… OMG … AMAZING!!!  Current shade: 110 Caramel.

• ·         Medium to full coverage
• ·         Price: $7-9. 
• ·         Long wearing, transfer resistant and humidity resistant
• ·         Natural  finish
• ·         12 shades available
• ·         No SPF
• ·         NO PUMP

REVLON COLOR STAY & COLOR STAY WHIP

Per the Revlon site this foundation: Long wearing coverage with a lightweight formula that won’t cake, fade, or rub off. With Time Release Technology specifically formulated for combination or oily skin to control oil absorption and shine. Your look stays flawless throughout the day.  Until recently the ColorStay combination/oily foundation was my go to foundation. Current shade:  Caramel in both products.

• ·         Medium to full coverage
• ·         Price $7-8
• ·         Semi matte finish
• ·         Liquid foundation comes in 2 formulations with 20 shades per formulation. The whip version comes in 16 shades with Caramel being the darkest.
• ·         Liquid foundations – NO PUMP!!.   I am concerned about bacterial transfer with the whip.  I use a separate brush/makeup spatula to scoop foundation out.  Don’t like this aspect of the foundation.

MILANI POWDER FOUNDATION

Claim: A velvety-light, oil-free formula that applies with the ease of a lightweight powder, with the full-color coverage and wear of a liquid foundation. Skin looks and feels comfortable, never dry.  I like the coverage but it is hard to use.  I have tried using a sponge, brush and the provided applicator.  For me it works best as a powder (It could be amazing I just may not know how to do it right).  Current Shade:  06 Caramel

• ·         Currently using as a powder to set my liquid foundation.  When I tried to use it as a foundation it was light coverage.
• ·         Price $8-9
• ·         Natural finish
• ·         8 shades available

L'OREAL True Match

Claim: Makeup precisely matches your skin’s tone and texture.  This is a very liquidly foundation.  I love how they manufactures have the line divided into Cool, Warm and Natural shades.  The shade range is really good just wish it would cover more. Current shade: W8 Crème Café, N8 Cappuccino,

• ·         Light to medium coverage
• ·         Price $10 -13
• ·         Natural Finish
• ·         SPF 17
• ·         33 shades
• ·         No Pump!!!

Other Foundations I Have Tried But Not Featured Here:

Revlon Nearly Naked:  Light coverage, not buildable, 4 hours of coverage before needing to reapply, 16 shades, SPF- Would not purchase again.

Revlon PhotoReady: Light  - medium coverage,  Lots of shimmering particles ( you don’t notice it till you go outside) 6- 8 hour coverage time, has a pump, SPF 20, 12 shades – NO, did not like the shimmers in it.

Maybelline Fit Me:  light –medium coverage, 6 hours of coverage before I needed to touch up or reapply, 18 shades, SPF 18 – It was ok.  Would not purchase again.